Walking through Brooklyn’s Green-Wood Cemetery, it’s easy to marvel at the unexpected sight of pawpaw trees thriving alongside historic tombstones. Deeper into the cemetery, American persimmons dangle above the graves, a testament to nature’s adaptability. This “museum of trees,” as Joseph Charap, Vice President of Horticulture at Green-Wood, describes it, is home to an arboretum dedicated to fostering a balanced ecosystem. Planting native trees, including pawpaws and persimmons, aligns with their mission to preserve biodiversity while adapting to changing climates.
As climate change accelerates, traditional fruit crops like apples, peaches, and pears are becoming increasingly vulnerable to extreme weather patterns, including warmer winters followed by sudden cold snaps. In contrast, native fruits are proving to be hardier. According to Ben Flanner, CEO of Brooklyn Grange Rooftop Farm, native varieties like pawpaws and serviceberries often require less water, fewer pesticides, and are more resilient to climate extremes. “Having the ability to withstand all that is critical in a warmer future,” Flanner notes.
Native fruits such as sand cherries, chokeberries, serviceberries, and beach plums are among those farmers and gardeners are turning to for answers. Serviceberries, also called juneberries, offer a delightful mix of strawberry and blueberry flavors with a hint of almond, making them perfect for pies, sorbets, and jams. Native Americans once used them to make pemmican, a high-energy food combining dried berries, meat, and fat. Similarly, beach plums, native to coastal dunes, yield nutrient-rich fruit often turned into jams and preserves. Their beauty, resilience, and ecological value make them ideal candidates for adaptation in commercial agriculture.
Brooklyn resident and gardener Reza Farzan has been growing pawpaws for over three decades. This tropical-looking fruit with creamy, mango-banana flavored flesh has deep roots in North America. “It’s the most prominent Native American tree,” Farzan says, noting how it connects him to the land’s history and heritage. Pawpaws thrive in a variety of climates, from the Florida panhandle to Ontario, and are often found near riverbanks and woodlands.
However, growing pawpaws requires patience. The trees can take up to 10 years to bear fruit, and the fruit itself has a short shelf life of just three to five days. Despite these challenges, the pawpaw’s resilience is unmatched. Farzan’s trees have endured sweltering heat, sub-zero winters, and even hurricanes like Sandy. His backyard greenhouse protects seedlings from frost, ensuring the next generation of pawpaws thrives.
Farzan has made it his mission to educate others about the benefits of growing native fruits. “Climate change is real,” he says. “Pawpaw trees can withstand a range of temperatures, make gardens beautiful, and produce nutritious fruit.” He delights in creating pawpaw-based recipes like bread, ice cream, and omelets, sharing the fruit’s versatility and taste with others.
Jessica Fanzo, director of the Food for Humanity Initiative at Columbia University, emphasizes that farmers must begin experimenting with native crops now. “Every square inch of land matters,” she explains, noting the challenges of limited space, navigating supply chains, and cultivating consumer demand. However, native fruits hold promise for adapting to a warming world and building a sustainable food system.
For Farzan, the joy of growing native fruits goes beyond sustenance—it’s about restoring ecological balance and reconnecting with history. “It takes time to change ideas and mindsets,” he reflects. “But every day I tend to my trees, even when they’re bare, and find solace in knowing I’m contributing to a resilient future.”
As the climate crisis continues, native fruits like pawpaws, serviceberries, and beach plums offer a pathway to resilience. They’re more than just crops—they’re symbols of adaptation, biodiversity, and hope for a sustainable world.
